Zeros

Curls, Reconsidered Curls are having a moment again, and the current wave — sorry — owes more to hairdressing history than most trend pieces let on. Before diffusers and curl creams, there was the permanent wave, and before that, the finger wave. Both are worth understanding if you want to know what today's curl revival is actually reviving. The Permanent, Properly Explained A classic perm restructures the hair's internal bonds rather than just shaping it temporarily. Stylists section damp hair around rollers of a chosen diameter, then apply an alkaline lotion — historically ammonium thioglycolate — that softens the hair's protein bonds. After processing under heat or time, a neutralizer resets those bonds around the new curled shape. The roller size determines the curl: small rods produce tight coils, while larger ones create loose waves. Done professionally, it's a chemistry lesson as much as a styling appointment. Finger Waves, the Origi...